TREATMENTS
SEPTEMBER 2026
What Are Polynucleotides and Why Is Everyone Talking About Them?
When will I see a difference?
This is where managing expectations matters.
Polynucleotides aren't designed to produce the kind of immediate structural change you might see from something like dermal filler.
The idea is to support processes within the skin, so improvements tend to be more gradual.
And “improvement” is the word we'd use rather than “transformation”.
You may be looking for skin that appears healthier, smoother, better hydrated or less crepey. You're not supposed to walk out looking like somebody has swapped your face for a new one.
Frankly, we consider that a positive.
If your Instagram feed has developed a sudden obsession with polynucleotides, you’re not alone.
A couple of years ago, most people outside the aesthetics industry had never heard the word. Now they seem to be everywhere, usually accompanied by glowing before-and-afters, pictures of under-eyes and somebody mentioning salmon sperm.
Which does rather raise a few questions.
So, what actually are polynucleotides? What are they supposed to do? And should you be adding them to the increasingly long list of treatments you're apparently meant to know about?
Let’s translate.
First of all, are they really made from salmon sperm?
Sort of. But also not quite in the way you're probably imagining.
Polynucleotides used in aesthetic treatments are highly purified fragments of DNA, typically derived from salmon or trout. They're processed and purified before being formulated into injectable products.
So while “salmon sperm facial” makes an excellent headline, nobody is scooping something out of a fish and injecting it under your eyes.
We’re very pleased to clear that up.
So what do polynucleotides actually do?
Unlike dermal filler, polynucleotides aren't primarily used to add volume or change the shape of your face.
And unlike Botox, they don't work by reducing muscle movement.
They're much more about skin quality.
Polynucleotides are used with the aim of supporting the skin's natural repair processes and improving things such as hydration, elasticity, texture and the overall appearance of the skin.
Think less “change my face” and more “help my skin behave a little better.”
That's one of the reasons they've become particularly interesting in midlife. If your main concern isn't necessarily one specific wrinkle but that your skin looks thinner, crepey, dull or generally a little less lively than it used to, improving skin quality may make more sense than trying to fill something.
Why is everyone talking about polynucleotides for under-eyes?
The eye area is probably where you'll have seen them mentioned most.
The skin around our eyes is naturally thin and, as we get older, changes in collagen, hydration and elasticity can make that area look more crepey or tired.
It's also an area where simply adding volume isn't always the answer.
Polynucleotides can be used around the eye area with the aim of improving the quality and condition of the skin itself rather than creating volume in the way a traditional filler would.
That doesn't mean they're a magic cure for every tired-looking eye, though.
Dark circles can have different causes. Hollows, pigmentation, skin quality and your underlying facial anatomy can all affect how the area looks, which is why two people complaining about exactly the same “tired eyes” might need completely different advice.
Annoying, we know.
Wouldn't it be easier if faces came with instruction manuals?
Where else can polynucleotides be used?
Although under-eyes have received a lot of attention, polynucleotides aren't exclusively an eye treatment.
Depending on the product and the person being treated, they may be used on areas such as the face, neck and other places where improving skin quality is the goal.
And that's an important distinction.
If what is bothering you is significant volume loss or a particular facial line caused by muscle movement, polynucleotides aren't suddenly going to take over the jobs of filler or Botox.
Different treatments do different things.
Which is precisely why we don't recommend choosing one simply because it happens to be having a moment on Instagram.
What happens when you have the treatment?
Polynucleotides are injectable, so yes, needles are involved.
The product is placed into the treatment area using a series of small injections. Depending on where you've been treated, you may have some redness, swelling, tenderness or little bumps immediately afterwards.
In other words, perhaps don't book them half an hour before your 25th wedding anniversary dinner and expect nobody to notice you've had anything done.
Your practitioner should talk you through what to expect, any potential side effects and the aftercare before treatment.
Polynucleotides are also generally approached as a course of treatment rather than an instant one-off transformation, with the exact treatment plan depending on the product, area being treated and your individual skin.
This is skin improvement territory, not Cinderella's pumpkin turning into a carriage at midnight.
Who are polynucleotides for?
There isn't a magic age at which everyone suddenly needs them.
You might be interested in polynucleotides if changes in your skin quality are bothering you, particularly things like crepiness, texture, hydration or the appearance of the delicate skin around your eyes.
But whether they're suitable for you is something that should be decided after a proper consultation, including discussion of your medical history, your skin and what you're actually hoping to achieve.
And there will be people for whom they aren't appropriate.
This is one of our recurring themes, but it's worth repeating: you do not need every treatment you've heard about.
Even the fashionable ones.
Are polynucleotides worth the hype?
We'd ask a slightly different question.
Are they the right treatment for you?
Because something can be a genuinely useful treatment without being something everybody needs.
If your concern is skin quality and you're looking for subtle, gradual improvement rather than adding volume or significantly changing your features, polynucleotides might be worth discussing.
If you're expecting them to erase every wrinkle, remove every dark circle and somehow return your face to the one you had in 1998, we're going to have to disappoint you.
We'd rather do that than sell you something you don't need.
Still wondering what your skin actually needs?
You really don't need to turn yourself into an aesthetics expert before coming to see us.
You don't even need to know whether you want polynucleotides.
Tell us what's bothering you. Tell us what has changed. Tell us how you'd like your skin to look or feel.
Then we can work backwards from there.
Because the goal isn't to have the treatment everybody is talking about.
It's to choose the things that make sense for your face, your skin and you.
Wondering if polynucleotides are right for you?
You don’t need to work that out on your own. Come and have a chat with us about what you’re noticing, what you’d like to improve and whether polynucleotides actually make sense for your skin.
And if they don’t? We’ll tell you that too.
Thank you
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